Original
Condition - photo taken about 1980. Still has original wheel covers (wish
I knew where they are now)
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1996 - In North Carolina
- lower body paint has faded significantly. White paint on top still
pretty good.
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Paint stripped from lower
body. Practicing my painting techniques on door jambs, and the inside of
the hood & trunk lid. I scuffed the white on the top with some 600
grit paper.
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Just about ready for some
primer. Overall the body was in pretty fair shape, with very little
rust...only a few minor spots which I cut out and patched. However,
after stripping off the paint, I could see some evidence of a previously
unknown "hit" on the passenger-side front door...from original owner, I
guess.
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Stupidly, I don't have any
pictures of the car in it's "gray primer" suit. However, it's there.
Even though it's not as durable as enamel or basecoat/clearcoat, I chose
PPG acrylic lacquer for the topcoat... on the premise that it's easier
for someone who doesn't really know what he's doing to spray it and get
a reasonably good finish. Since the car is garaged all of the time,
it should last a while. |
Topcoats are done.
(Upper body/top had been previously done and masked off). I ended
up with 6 coats of lacquer.
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View from the other side.
If you look closely at the lower right corner you can see the paint in
the grass.
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Buffed, waxed, rechromed bumpers
& trim. What you don't see is the hours of wet sanding and buffing...a
disadvantage of lacquer paint. Also at this point, all of the door rubber
(weatherstrips, window beltlines, etc.). has been replaced. |
Interior has been stripped.
I installed some heat shield padding after cleaning the floor pan and painting
over some some surface rust spots with POR-15 ( that's great stuff, isn't
it?). |
The interior color scheme was
changed to a gray theme... much easier to mix & match colors.
Original was a faded gold. Kick panels and other plastic trim have
been dyed a darker shade of gray. Here I have installed a new molded
carpet. |
New gray headliner. I
also installed this myself from a pre-sewn kit. It really was
not difficult...by going slow and making damn sure you measured right before
you cut anything, you have a better chance of success. This was my
first try, and it came out with almost no wrinkles...the few that were
left, I flattened with water mist and a hair dryer. |
Next, the seats. This
is the front seat frame stripped. The foam was pretty squishy but,
surprisingly, there were no broken springs. Living in the furniture
capital of the world (High Point, NC) it's pretty easy to get upholstery
supplies such as foam, cotton batting, etc. from local distributors.
The back seat was similar but in a little better shape. |
New seat covers ready to go
on. Again, using pre-sewn kits really makes it pretty easy.
On the front (shown above) the foam was a molded piece, not just a flat
slab. I chose to reuse it, but bolstered it with a flat slab on top
to stiffen up the old piece. |
There we go...not too bad for
someone who doesn't know what he's doing, huh? |
Installed & ready to
go. If you've ever removed and replaced a bench seat from a car,
you know what a pain it is. Especially if you're doing it by yourself! |
Here's a picture of one of
the original door panels. The bottom part was mousy brown carpet.
The top part (shown here folded back) was attached to a metal insert that
forms the top contour of the door panel. The metal insert has been
removed from the flat fiberboard portion of the panel (and reattached to
a new piece of 1/8" masonite). |
Just an interesting fact:
door panels were dated October 6, 1969. |
My intent was not to create
a real fancy set of door panels, just something quick & easy, and halfway
decent looking. I picked up, from a local fabric distributor, 4 yards
of grey Naugahyde vinyl with a non-woven backing (right) and a few yards
of very thin (1/8") foam (left). The foam is the same type that is
used in making quilts, & such. Total cost, about $25. |
After gluing the foam onto
the masonite and metal top piece, I covered the whole panel with the vinyl.
You can't see it in this picture, but I also riveted new window beltline
weatherstrip on the panel (the other side of the beltline was previously
fastened to the door). |
Rear door. The most
expensive part of this phase of the work was the new reproduction armrests
($30 each). The window cranks and lock buttons were picked up at
the local Auto Zone. The door handles were in pretty good shape,
just needed a little metal polish. |
A new set of pedal pads,
and a coat of paint on the brake & accelerator pedal arms. Of
course, getting the brake pedal & arm out of the car was not quite
as easy as I thought it would be..lots of bad words and working upside
down. I took out the parking brake mechanism and cleaned & painted
it also. |